Lesson3�@How to Operate a Camera (Basic)

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��Setting data
��Lens choice
��Photographing a "single" shell
��Shell count versus exposure time
��Starmines
��Results give you hints
��About multiple exposures
��How to take multiple exposure images
��About exposure timing

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��Camera setting
Now, let's start a more concrete step, by discussing the practical techniques of fireworks photography. First, I will give you some basic camera settings. Note: In this lesson, I will address the case of photographing "simple" fireworks shell launches (single shots and starmines):

�ESpot value aperture setting is about F11 (F8 _ 16) at ISO 100
�ESet the shutter mode to "Bulb"
�EExposure time is 1-10 seconds
�EFocus at "infinity"

These approximate camera settings are valid at a "medium-range" subject distance of 400 to 600m.
This case also assumes that you are not using a telephoto lens (over 100mm) for close-up fireworks images. Do not try to measure your exposure times by looking at a wristwatch. If you keep looking at a watch, then you are not taking photos. Instead, simply learn to "count" the exposure times in your mind: "one, two, three...." If you wish, you can train yourself to count more accurately by practicing reading the second hand of a wristwatch, but please don't try to do this during the actual fireworks display.
The spot value aperture setting will vary according to the type of shells and the distance. But these approximate settings are usable in most instances of fireworks photography. If you are shooting from a long distance (about 1000m), or you feel that the fireworks blooms are dim, then try opening the lens aperture by another half-stop or more. At close-range distances (350m or less), close the aperture by half to one stop. If the fireworks blooms are very bright (light as day), quickly close the aperture by one to two stops. If you are using a telephoto lens for close-ups images, close the aperture by an additional half-stop.

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��Lens choice
Also refer to Lesson 2 "Location Hunting" If you are shooting from a distance of 400 to 600m away from the launching spot, a 35 to 70mm focal length lens is ideal. This lens will enable you to completely frame every bit of the bloom resulting from 6-inch to 12-inch shells. Foreground "night views" may also be included. If you are shooting from a distance of 400m or less, you will probably need a 28mm wide-angle lens. For distances of 1000m or more, a 70mm telephoto lens is handy.

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��To shoot only single launching shell
The easiest, most basic, way is to exclude any foreground night views from the frame _ simply photograph the burst scene only, and use the camera exposure data described earlier. There are two ways to point the camera, and I describe them as "Fixed" and "Following."
The "Fixed" technique is very basic and easy. Simply choose an approximate point in the sky (in the direction of launching area, of course) and fix (lock) the camera orientation on the tripod. At the beginning of the fireworks display, you should look through the camera viewfinder and start getting a feel for the frame composition in advance. (Of course, you cannot "see" through the viewfinder of a TTL camera during an exposure.) In short, you must learn to "grasp" the area of night sky that you are photographing.
Then, simply wait for the shell launch and release the shutter. With this technique, I recommend that you press the cable release and open the shutter as soon as the shell launches. You may then close the frame after only one, or several, shells bloom in the frame. Afterwards, repeat this action for the next launch.
The "Following" technique is a bit more difficult. The "goal" is to capture a full blooming fireworks scene (like a 12-inch round shell), framed in the center of the image without "clipping" any part of the bloom. To accomplish this, you must listen carefully for the "shoot-out sound" as the shell launches and then, while looking through your viewfinder, pan/tilt the camera to follow the trail of the launched shell (pretend you are using a movie or video camera). Then, just before the burst, quickly lock the tripod pan/tilt axes, and open the shutter. If you want to capture only one exploding shell in the frame, this is the best technique to use. This method works well for the larger (over 10 inches) round shells.
If you use the "Following" technique, your photos will generally be more beautiful with only one bloom per frame. If you choose to multi-expose and include additional blooms in the same frame, be careful not overlap the centers of each bloom (high risk of overexposure). It is better to shift the bloom centers at least one radius apart. But overlapping the outer portions of the blooms can be very beautiful.

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��Shell count versus exposure time
Perhaps you wonder why my "recommended" exposure settings have such wide latitude. "What is the best exposure time?" This is probably the most frequently asked question about fireworks photography. I'm sorry, but there are no fixed rules or answers to these fireworks photography questions. In short, the exposure time will change according to each fireworks display, and according to your desired photographic goals.
Please keep in mind that fireworks have a wide range of explosion/burn periods, but the average times from "shoot-out" to "shell-vanish," are generally between one and ten seconds. So the minimum exposure time is clear _ one second, and the maximum time might be about ten seconds. Within these limits, how long should the shutter remain open? How many explosions should be recorded?
The answer is: "As you like!" To minimize the risk of overexposure, I generally recommend ten seconds or less. So you are free to choose any exposure time (less than ten seconds) as you see fit. Please experiment, as there are no strict rules. If anything, it depends on your personal style, and goals, for the type of photograph you want to create. As a result, exposure time will vary according to these factors.
For example, if you choose to take images of "fireworks only" (excluding night view foreground and background objects), you may regulate your exposure time according to the number of blooms per frame. Four to six blooms in one frame is a general standard.

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��Starmines
Recently, "continuous launch" displays, called starmines, have become the leading actors in most fireworks exhibitions. Photographing starmines, is different from the case of a single-launched shell. For starmines, it is more appropriate to measure the exposure time by counting to yourself _ for starters, perhaps just two or three seconds (or less) at F11. Starmine exposures will be comparatively shorter than single-launched shells. By design, starmine exhibits launch a lot of shells during a short period of time, so they are very bright and the risk of overexposure is high. You will have to estimate exposures, and learn from experience how to best photograph starmines.

Well, now you are ready to start taking some photos using the aforementioned recommendations. If you follow these instructions carefully, you ought to get some fine images (maybe.....?).

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��Results give you hints
How were the results? Was it as you imagined? You will discover that taking pictures of fireworks is very easy! That is, simply use the recommended camera settings, open the shutter when the fireworks are launched, and close it whenever it "feels right." This is all you need to know about the camera operation.
Now go back and check the photos that were taken with your standard camera settings. While you are learning, please record (write down) all of your fireworks photography data (exposure time, F-stop, type/impression of each shell, weather condition, etc). You can learn a great deal from any photo (good or bad quality) that you have taken. Many hints are there. You may find that images with several blooms in the frame look more brilliant, or perhaps they are overexposed. While images with only a few blooms may look dim, or perhaps they are "just right." If you make the best use of these hints, you will learn to take better photos the next time. Regardless, please just go out and TRY to take your first fireworks photographs.

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��About multiple exposures
Many fireworks photos are taken using multiple exposure techniques.
There are various ways to multi-expose an image, but there is no guaranteed "best" way. Many experts of fireworks photography prefer using their own personal techniques.
Earlier, I explained the simple "Fixed" method for photographing a single shell: Use cable release and open the shutter, expose for a few seconds, close the shutter, and advance the film _ very basic. If you prefer to only take pictures of single burst shells, one-at-a-time, then this basic technique is fine. But if you want more than one burst scene in the frame, you will quickly realize the limitations of this technique. If you are using this "fixed" approach, and then decide "I'd like to capture one more shell in the upper-right corner, to make this a well-balanced composition," you will quickly realize that you cannot simply "wait" for a long time with the shutter open. You will definitely overexpose the frame, the night sky will look like daytime, and your image will be ruined.
So you'll be forced to give up on that one and advance to the next frame. As a result, we need a "Multiple Exposure" capability. This is another basic, and popular, technique used by most all experienced fireworks photographers.

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��How to take multiple exposure images
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There are 2 easy ways to take multi-exposures. One is by using a black card to cover the lens (top photos).
Given the example above ("I'd like to capture one more shell in the upper-right�c) you should keep the shutter open, but cover the lens with the black card, or lens cap, immediately after the first exposure. A black cloth, or even a dark cap, will do _ anything to prevent light from entering the lens while the shutter is open. Then, if the next shell appears to be bursting in your desired location, quickly remove the black cover and resume the exposure again. Once you are "finished" exposing that frame, close the shutter. If you wish to continue exposing, simply repeat the black card action, but pay close attention to the total exposure time. It is best not to exceed 10 to 15 seconds total time.
This method is simple and quite popular, not only for beginners, but among experts as well. A "black cover" can be easily made at home. Your cover card should be about 20cm square, with a thickness similar to the back of a drawing paper tablet or corrugated cardboard. The side which faces the lens must be painted with a flat black finish, or covered with flat black paper, to prevent stray reflections of light from entering the camera. Simply hold the cover in your hand, and use it to block the lens instead of closing the shutter.
When using this technique, take special care not to bump the tip of lens, especially when using a zoom lens, because blurring or focus problems may result. (Lower photos show our "FPL original" hand-made lens cover cap)

Another technique is to use the "multi-exposure function" that may be built in to your camera.
Please refer to your camera operating manual to determine how to use this function. Given the same example ("I'd like to capture one more shell in the upper-right�c), simply close the shutter immediately after the first exposure, operate the camera's "multi exposure" function (which resets the shutter without advancing the film) and then, if the next shell appears to be bursting in your desired location, release the shutter again.
Again, be very careful when operating the multi-exposure function on the camera. Very often, this technique requires a manually operated, film roll-up, action which can easily result in blurred images. Please fix the camera tightly on the tripod and perform the roll-up action very slowly and carefully.
You will be greatly disappointed if your nice fireworks image is blurred or contains "gaps." If you combine fireworks with other night view images, blurring or gapping within the frame are often fatal mistakes. It is recommended that you take a number of "repeat" images of the same night view as "insurance."
This multiple exposure technique makes it possible to combine fireworks in one frame with fireworks launching at a later time. It's a big step forward in improving your photographic technique.

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��About exposure timing �@�@�@ In the case of launching only one shell, let's think about when to start, and end, the exposure. First, you must understand that once you see the initial burst with your eye, it is too late to start the exposure. Why is it too late? Because fireworks vanish from the moment you see them. If you see the burst, and then immediately start the exposure, you've already lost the center part of that shell. You may "see" a persistent vision of the shell burst in your eyes, but the initial flash has already vanished, and it will not be exposed on the film. In the case of a round shell like a chrysanthemum, if you are late starting the exposure, the flower will lose the center, and appear like a doughnut. For starmines, it is impossible to synchronize the shutter timing with all of the launched shells. So, when shall we start the exposure? In the case of a single shell, you may start any time between the initial shoot-out until just before it bursts. When shall we stop the exposure? Close the shutter when all the burning stars have disappeared.

The center of the explosion is lost _ the image looks sloppy A proper exposure catches the center flash _ the image looks sharp

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